Both the joy and curse of an expat is encountering and experiencing things foreign. Whether it is food, street signs, mannerisms or cultural expectations, these encounters are all around you every day. In these early days, I have found all the difference as exhausting as it is exhilarating. There are times when all I want is something familiar, and here in Hong Kong, at least, a culture catering to western expectations is available – expensive, but available. I started thinking about this entry as a humorous account of all the odd signs and creative uses of English words we have seen here in Hong Kong. But a glass of wine and a really kind waiter made me think twice. First, let me acknowledge that I am fluent in only one language, and therefore have no business criticizing anyone for misappropriating a few words. During our stay in Hong Kong, most of those we have communicated with have, at the very least, a rudimentary understanding of English – which far surpasses my understanding of Cantonese or Mandarin, spoken or written. I also mustn’t fail to point out how lucky we feel that many signs are provided in English so that we have a chance to read them and be puzzled or tickled or both.
Nearly everyday we walk by a relatively mundane clothing store inexplicably named “Stage of Playlord” across from another (womens!) clothing store called “Wanko.” Or there’s the sign we came across where a pink cartoon character holding a bubble (spit?) wand imploring “Please Wrap Spittle.”
My favorite, though, are the signs on the mid-levels “travelator/escalator” where amidst detailed instructions about holding handrails, not loitering, and not obstructing entry/exit points, you find “Do not wail against the flow.” It is important enough to be number 4 on the list of instructions, before “Pets must be carried” and “Do not activate the emergency switch except in an emergency.”
Even though it’s a completely foreign use of English, I get it. It is important here to go with the group, obey the rules, follow the arrows – even though in many ways Hong Kong and its people “wail against the flow” of mainland China.
Wailing against the flow as an expat can make for a miserable experience. Ultimately, it is impossible to live an American lifestyle outside of America. The space is different, the culture is different, different principles are valued. I do think that with equal parts determination and money, we could approximate our old lifestyle. But in doing that, we’d be missing the best parts of this experience. We’d be frustrated by the dearth of solid antiperspirant for purchase, confounded by the never-on-the-hour (American!) TV shows, or annoyed by the lack of breakfast spots – instead of appreciating the quirky signs, the surprising number of Mexican restaurants, or the generous use of English. So although I still have my moments, I am trying hard not to wail against the flow of the expat experience.
Dear Jill,
I loved reading your entries….made me very homesick for HK and all my dear friends there. Please keep doing this, it’s wonderful!
Fondly,
Lorraine
That reminds me of when i started drinking wine at lunch when we lived in paris. You know, just to fit in with the culture ; )
Love lunch! I think it must be why there are so few breakfast places open early. Everyone just waits for a nice long (sometimes boozy) lunch! I had wine yesterday at lunch, too!
It’s so tempting when you never have to drive anywhere!
I can’t even imagine what it would be like to move out of New England. I wouldn’t make a very good ex-pat. I am happy to live vicariously through the Hong Kong Baxters. I’ll try not to wail too loud from Connecticut.